Call it competition. Call it vanity. Call it what you will. Men today care about how they look and are getting a handle on their grooming habits. Companies seem to think so too. There have been several new male-oriented entrants into the mass market, such as Nivea for Men and Neutrogena Razor Defense, which executives insist was a natural progression from the prestige market.

“The trend for men’s products started five years ago in department stores and has trickled down to mass for the everyday man,” insisted Catherine Lair, director of marketing at Nivea’s parent company, Beiersdorf Inc.

That’s not to say the men’s market is easy to penetrate or falls into existing business models. Men are different consumers than women and view personal care as necessary, but not always indulgent. They also have a lot more to learn than women, who have been studious readers of beauty magazines for decades. But the move from class to mass indicates marketers know what they are doing; the male consumer is now informed. This didn’t exactly translate into shining prestige sales last year, but it was a tough year the prestige sector as a whole.

Sales in the $989 million U.S. prestige men’s grooming market fell 3% in 2001, according to NPD BeautyTrends, Port Washington, NY. Of that total, the $946 million fragrance sector fell 3% and the $43 million skin care category dropped 1%.

The No. 1 men’s prestige skin care product in 2001 was Clinique’s Skin Supplies face scrub, followed by Skin Supplies M lotion tube. In fact, Clinique held three of the top five positions in skin care. The only other brand in the top five was Aramis’ Lab Series for Men. Experts said that Clinique accounts for roughly 50% of men’s prestige skin care sales, and Aramis garners 30%. Both are owned by Estée Lauder. The remaining 20% is divided among a number of brands.

Clinique recently introduced Clinique Skin Supplies for Men Moisture Surge Extra Oil-Free gel. This super-hydrating gel is suited for men’s skin after a day in the sun or a long plane flight. With ingredients such as aloe, trehalose, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 and glycerin, the gel helps retain moisture in the skin and buffers daily environmental aggressors.

Aramis’ Lab Series for Men introduced Trifecta Triple-Effect Formula, which is said to reduce excess shine, shrink pores and smooth the skin. Executives said Trifecta uses a gentle, non-acid technology to rid the skin of dry, flaky cells and provide hydration. Antioxidants include green tea, tocopheryl acetate and algae. Other ingredients are caffeine, polymers, sclareolide, sodium hyaluronate, palmitoyl pentapeptide and acetyl glucosamine.

Following Women’s Fragrances
In the prestige sector, men’s fragrances are often just footsteps behind a successful women’s fragrance launch. For example, Estée Lauder launched Lauder Intuition for Men in July as a counterpart to the successful women’s Intuition fragrance. The male scent introduced a new fragrance classification-solar oriental. Executives said the sensual, fresh and woodsy fragrance is more vibrant than traditional oriental scents. The top notes feature sage, cucumber, nutmeg and cardamom. The heart consists of sap, patchouli and cedarwood with a base of amber, incense, myrrh and labdanum.

“Sixty percent of women’s fragrances are part of a master brand, while 90% of men’s fragrances are part of a master brand,” explained Daniel Annese, vice president of marketing, North America, Estée Lauder. “When you add this to the fact that 60% of men’s fragrances are purchased by women, it made a lot of sense to introduce a men’s version of Intuition.”

Fubu Plush, another fragrance introduction following on the success of a woman’s launch, is new from Inter Parfums. Fubu Plush features a top note of amaretto and is classified as a fougere oriental.

Lancôme’s Miracle for Men was introduced last summer to match the popular Miracle for Women fragrance. The scent was designed to be an expression of a sunrise. Described as a fresh and spicy fougére, Miracle for Men’s top notes mirror the coolness of dawn with maple leaf, red pepper absolute and oak moss. The heart consists of coffee granita and cedarwood, symbolizing warm sunshine. The sensual notes of rose wood, gaïac wood and vetiver create the base.

Clothing designer Giorgio Armani recently launched Armani Mania, a fresh, woody and sensual fragrance joining the women’s Mania fragrance launched in 2000. Items such as deodorant stick, all-over shampoo, aftershave balm and EDT round out the line. Executives said men are becoming more educated about fragrance and skin care, using a wardrobe of fragrances to complement their lifestyles, which allowed a growth in ancillary items and introductions. In fact, men are beginning to demand as technologically advanced products as women, but practical ones.

“We should see more and more advanced products, and a wider range of them,” insisted Serge Jureidini, general manager, Giorgio Armani Parfums. “Of course, products that fit into a hectic lifestyle-products that can go from home to the office to the gym and on a trip-will be favored.”

A new mass line that is solely for men is Pierre Cardin’s men’s grooming essentials line. With modern silver packaging, the line includes deodorant/antiperspirant, shaving gel, aftershave balm, aftershave lotion and hair and body wash.

The New Shopper
Zirh Skin Nutrition’s president, Brian Robinson, said the men’s category continues to grow for a number of reasons, such as the proliferation of men’s magazines, the internet and aging baby boomers. “Retailers are also buying into the category and are increasing awareness,” Mr. Robinson said.

The needs of men have not changed in the past decade, but the shopping environment has, Mr. Robinson said. Zirh Skin Nutrition opened its new counter concept in Selfridges in the UK. The counter is in the men’s clothing area and features glass and aluminum with blue lighting similar to Zirh’s packaging.

Estée Lauder introduced Intuition for Men to extend the Intuition master brand.

Last fall, Zirh introduced an eponymous fragrance in a 4.2-oz EDT, 2.5-oz. spray, deodorant stick and fragranced body bar. The fragrance features a blend of cool spices and a drydown of woody scents. The fragrance is housed in a glass bottle inside a silver on silver brushed-aluminum canister. “Our products are typically not heavily scented,” explained Mr. Robinson. “But we felt we were missing sales from certain fashion-conscious men, so we made a fragrance that was very wearable and unassuming.”

This month, Zirh will add a 40ml EDT and a shower gel. The company will also launch 60-count astringent pads. In March, Zirh restaged its travel kit with six products in lightweight, squeezable, plastic containers for travel convenience and an updated silver nylon bag with three zipper compartments. The products include Clean (facial wash), shampoo, conditioner, shave cream, Soother (shave healer) and Smooth (hand and body cream).

Getting Pits Out of the Pits
Babor for Men, an eight-SKU product line introduced a year ago in the U.S., recently debuted its new plexiglass and stainless steel tester unit with the company’s best-selling products: EDT, All Over shampoo and Daily moisturizer.

Executives hinted that the next product introduction may be a solid deodorant stick that was recently launched in Europe, although U.S. men tend to look at deodorant as more utilitarian than luxurious, said Babor president and chief executive officer Paul Cain. But men’s skin care is growing into a viable market, even though challenges still remain.

“Most men don’t actively look for skin care products,” insisted Mr. Cain. “What happens is that they secretly use women’s products and discover which ones are quite functional. So if they come across a high quality product again, they have an interest.”

Other ways to target the male consumer is through men’s one-hour facials using Babor for Men products. Half of the company’s sales, however, occur because women want their men to try something new. Babor offers sampler kits with an EDT sample and All-Over shampoo foil packet at women’s counters. “Encouraging sampling to women is a technique that works quite well,” Mr. Cain asserted.

Unilever is hoping the American male will be interested in a deodorant that can also act as a cologne. Axe, a popular line in Europe and the No. 1 male deodorant globally, debuted in North America in August. According to a recent survey, 77% of women say body odor is the No. 1 deal breaker when considering a date. The six Axe fragrances include Apollo, Kilo, Orion, Phoenix, Tsunami and Voodoo and were created by Ann Gottlieb, the nose behind such hits as CK One. They are sold in mass merchandise stores.

Nicks and Knickknacks
Most experts agree that the best way to enter the men’s market is through the shaving category. This doorway at one time provided easy entry into the category, but with more complex products targeting specific solutions, the competition is getting fierce.

Nivea for Men made its debut in February 2001 after two decades in Europe. In July, parent company Beiersdorf changed the name of its lotion and boosted its SPF from 4 to 15. The new product, Daily Protective lotion, is part of men’s growing awareness for sun protection.

Neutrogena’s Skin Clearing line helps protect skin against acne.

“Men are starting to hear about skin cancer,” explained Beiersdorf’s Ms. Lair. “In this country, there is a high awareness about the sun.”

Data gathered by Beiersdorf indicated that in terms of moisturization, men said they wanted protection from cold weather and UV rays. The Nivea for Men line also speaks to men who prefer the clean-shaven look with various shaving products. Within that category, Ms. Lair defined two segments: men who prefer alcohol-based aftershave products to refresh their skin and are not so concerned with dryness, and others who want to get rid of the pain associated with shaving. For the latter, the company created the Aftershave balm. Men also differ widely from women in their skin care concerns.

“Men want to have more comfort,” insisted Ms. Lair. “Their concerns about aging are not as prevalent as women’s, partly because the signs begin later due to their thicker skin. Aging typically appears when men reach their 40s, but women see lines in their 20s.”

The attention men now give to healthy skin is for a variety of reasons. The first is to be attractive. Secondly, men want to get the job and they must look the best they can, especially older men who must compete with a younger-looking crowd. Also, the market is welcoming men without discriminating against them and their needs.

“Attitudes have changed because the need to look better and taking care of skin is no longer strictly feminine,” Ms. Lair said.

Ingrown Hairs-What a Pain!
Ingrown hairs, which are caused by shaving, are a pain for many men. MD Formulations, San Francisco, CA, introduced Facial Cleanser, a product formulated to fight acne, reduce wrinkles, leave skin soft and reduce ingrown hairs. It is also fragrance- and oil-free. According to executives, Facial Cleanser is the No. 1 seller in spas that carry MD Formulations. An 8.3-oz. bottle retails for $32. MD Formulations also recently launched Body gel, a total body cleanser that can also be used on hair. Executives said men can save time using this dual-purpose exfoliating product.

Dr. Milton Moore, Houston, TX, dermatologist and founder of the Moore Unique skin care line, knows all about shaving problems. For both men and women, Dr. Moore introduced Moore Unique Hydroglide shaving solutions and body moisturizer. Executives said the main ingredient, propylene glycol, instantly bridges the oil and water barrier on the skin, making shaving close but comfortable with aloe vera. Other Moore Unique products are Razor Rash Relief, Toner cream, Scalp and Bump Relief, Hair Lifting tool and others.

For shaving comfort, Burt’s Bees introduced new Bay Rum collection products featuring bay herb, citrus, patchouli and spices. The Burt’s Bees Bay Rum aftershave balm uses oat protein, glycerin, vitamin E and witch hazel to soothe the skin. The collection’s moisturizing cream has vitamin E and aloe to relieve dry, rough skin. Burt’s Bees shaving soap also uses aloe and glycerin to create a creamy lather for a close and comfortable shave. (For more on Burt’s Bees, see p. 42.)

Pesky Pimples
Some men suffer from acne, which makes shaving all the more difficult. While most women blame blemishes on hormones and stress, men attribute breakouts to oily skin. Younger men (18-34) usually turn to their girlfriends and moms while older men (35-54) turn to their wives and girlfriends for skin care solutions, according to Neutrogena executives. But instead of seeking advice from the women in their lives, guys should try Neutrogena’s Skin Clearing line. It reduces problems that start at the pores, such as breakouts, ingrown hairs and blackheads.

The Skin Clearing line has an astringent aftershave, face bar, face wash, shave cream and targeted acne treatment. By giving men baby-smooth facial skin, the shaving experience is all the more enjoyable.

Neutrogena also launched the Razor Defense line which includes a shave gel, daily face scrub and face lotion that are said to soften facial hair and skin within four weeks to ease the shaving experience.

PeterThomasRoth Clinical Skin Care, New York, offers BPO 2 1/2% medicated shaving cream with benzoyl peroxide to treat and control mild acne, ingrown hairs and razor bumps. Executives said it helps kill acne-causing bacteria and prevents the appearance of new blemishes.

The Sensitive Type
For men who have just plain sensitive skin, there are a few options out there. Just shy of celebrating its first anniversary, N>DN (Natural is greater than Dermatological Nutrients) Skin Care for Men, New York, is making a name for itself in the prestige men’s market. The skin care line uses natural ingredients to give men with sensitive skin the regime they need, in a simple way, according to the company. The white bottles feature the product name and brand logo in a clear, no-fuss presentation. The line is a part of the growing trend in men’s products that some say got its start in the media.

“The growth of the market has a lot to do with the media and reality-based shows, where you get a peek at men’s regimens,” explained N>DN president Rob Eric. “More people are now seeing what men do in private, and they’re not stealing from women’s cabinets.”

The line’s target audience, 25 to 40-year-old men, tends to be more experimental than older men. The products are placed in men’s clothing sections of department stores rather than the quintessential counter setup in department stores for women.

“Guys like to buy everything at once, including underwear, shoes, clothes and skin care,” Mr. Eric insisted.

The line also contains natural ingredients that are malecentric, rather than flowery oils and fragrances. For example, N>DN uses cactus wax in the Ma-soo-koo Exfoliating facial mask. Still, the draw to natural ingredients is non-gender specific. “So much bad news has been said about chemicals and alcohol in skin care products,” said Mr. Eric. “Just like women, men will use natural products if they work well.”

N>DN plans to launch a cologne in 2003 called > (Greater Than).

Art of Shaving focuses on sensitive skin with natural ingredients and essential oils.

According to industry estimates, 90% of men who shave in the U.S. use a razor. The owners of upscale New York-based The Art of Shaving insist freshly shaven skin is all the more sensitive to dyes, fragrance and alcohol. Therefore, natural botanicals and pure essential oils are the best solution.

“Men are usually looking for fragrance-free products because fragrance often irritates the skin, but they are realizing that it is better to use natural ingredients rather than those with side effects,” explained Myriam Zaoui, certified aromatherapist and vice president of The Art of Shaving.

The products were also designed to maintain sebum and pH levels. Originally a shaving line, The Art of Shaving has recently expanded with skin and hair care lines for sensitive and post-shaven skin. Products in the skin care line include The Art of Shaving facial wash, facial scrub, moisturizer, eye gel aftershave mask and lip balm.

The company’s innovative After-shave mask uses a blend of rosewater, rose desert clay, olive and jojoba oil to soothe the face following the shaving process. The mask was mixed and used in-store in The Art of Shaving’s barbershops for six years. After numerous requests, the company introduced single-dose masks with mild preservatives to be as kind to men’s skin as possible.

The new Art of Shaving hair care line includes a shampoo and conditioner with rosemary and peppermint essential oils, and a hair gel with fortifying wood cellulose. These natural ingredients are what men desire, insisted Ms. Zaoui. “Men are looking for hair growth and stimulating scalp products,” she said. “They want results right away, and oils such as peppermint give a refreshing effect. Men also hate moisturizers and want a matte feeling. This is why we added clay to our moisturizer to quickly soak into the skin and absorb excess oil.”

Show a Little Skin
As Giorgio Armani’s Mr. Jureidini mentioned, men want skin care to be as advanced as women’s skin care. This month, Clarins USA, New York, is introducing ClarinsMen, a complete skin care line specifically designed for men. The collection includes nine products that promise to energize skin and combat daily aggressions. Since men’s thick, oily skin is aggravated by shaving, executives said men need more intense skin care to increase circulation, purify and soothe skin. Executives also said men are aware of Clarins due to the company’s sun care lines, a concept they plan to bring to the Clarins-Men line soon.

“We developed this line because men are looking for products that are simple, effective yet sophisticated,” said Caroline Pieper, vice president of marketing, Clarins USA. “The 21st century man is looking for products that address his needs and personality. Men are taking an interest in improving the look and feel of their skin.”

The line features three core ingredients. The first, bison grass, is known for its circulating and energizing abilities. The other ingredients, Chinese galanga (revitalizing) and Purlsane (soothing and purifying), form a complex.

Each of the nine ClarinsMen skin care and body care SKUs feature a pictogram to explain the product’s purpose and result. With names such as Active Face wash and Fatigue Fighter, the products are divided into four categories: Cleansing and Shaving, Moisturizing, Specifics and Hair and Body. ClarinsMen trials are now available with purchases at Clarins counters. The products are also sold online at www.gloss.com.

L’Oréal’s Biotherm line introduced Biotherm Homme, a system of four high-performance body care products designed to take the guesswork out of grooming. The four steps include cleansing with Energizing shower gel for the body and hair, scrubbing with Friction shower scrub, hydrating with Cool Body hydra-gel and relaxing with Body heat effect, a roll-on that increases circulation and heats fatigued muscles. The products contain invigorating extracts such as menthol, peppermint, ginseng and camphor as well as a soothing thermal plankton extract.

Under new ownership, Baxter of California, Beverly Hills, CA, has reformulated its well-established prestige skin care line for men. The line includes an updated Face wash, Vitamin E-D-A cleansing bar, Skin Toner facial scrub, Clarifying clay mask, Super Shape SPF 15 moisturizer, Razor-Bump Repair, Under-Eye complex and Enriched night cream AHA. Executives said the products, designed to work alone or in tandem, provide men with skin care solutions for anti-aging, shaving, cleansing and basic skin care using science and natural ingredients.

Covering Those Imperfections
What are men supposed to do about unseemly blemishes or puffy morning eyes? Menaji Men’s Skin Care, a Nashville, TN-based skin care line catered to men, has all the answers and for a good reason. “Men are the new target of the beauty industry,” insisted founder and chief executive officer Michele Probst. “They spend close to $12 billion a year on their appearance.”
The company is careful not to use the “m” word (makeup) to describe the solutions it offers. The recently introduced Camo-Magnum, a jojoba oil-based concealer with SPF 8, blends with men’s skin to cover up imperfections without leaving a mask-like look. “It allows spot coverage,” said Ms. Probst, “so men don’t have to put it all over their faces.”

Another recent product is H.D.P.V. Dual Active powder, an undetectable oil-absorbing powder with SPF 15 and vitamins C and E. This product was specifically designed for men’s oily skin, which is said to be 15% oilier than women’s skin.

“The modern man is looking for the first time to have healthy-looking skin,” Ms. Probst asserted. “It’s not about looking pretty, but rather healthy and young. Skin is the most important aspect of business if you have to deal with people.”

I Spy a Men’s Spa
With increased skin care awareness among men, men’s day spas have popped up everywhere. Appellation, a Sausalito, CA-based California North brand, was born out of demand from British cruise ships that requested a mint-smelling mask for men’s facials. The resulting product line features a high dose of grapeseed oil, billed as one of the strongest antioxidants in skin care by company founder Jim Miller. Three products were added to the Appellation line: Face and Body wash, Microfine scrub and Grapeseed moisturizer. Existing products included Therapeutic Grapeseed muscle soak and Purifying Clay facial mask.

Menaji’s Camo-Magnum helps men conceal blemishes and dark circles around the eyes.